The Poncho!!!! The Big Raspberry!

There´s no way around this one. The poncho is the most necessary accoutrement on the Camino, and the most un-sexy ever!!!!! Make sure you´re poncho is waterproof and covers your pack. (I´m really smuggling two foreigners underneath my poncho!!! They´re small, but very nice people!)

The Maseta, Camino, dry, dry, dry

It looks hot, but it´s not. Well, let me explain. Spain is quite interesting because the mornings are so crisp and cool, that you´ll freeze your balls off, if you have balls, of which I don´t. But, let´s just say you leave the Auberge, hostel around 7 or 8am, cold, walking fast in order to keep warm and about 10am, you´re sweating balls (if you have them) and have to change most of your clothing into hot-weather gear. Take a good look at my pics----all taken the same day. But just wait, the weather changes with the altitude, the Province, and the sound of wine glasses clinking! Be prepared.

First day of rest

Today was my first day of rest after 20 days of walking. Nobody likes to take a day off of the Camino...only if you´re toes are falling off, you haven´t slept in 2 weeks, and the chorizo you ate is repeating itself over and over. The reason: the same reason no one wants to stop eating in the middle of dinner, stop cycling when it´s still sunny, hot, and Saturday, stop talking when you´ve got the perfect group of conversationalists at hand. The Camino is your Camino, but it also ebbs and flows. Yesterday, I managed to swim in the small, icy-pond that´s a swimming pool at my Auberge just outside of Leon, and afterwards I had a small case of hypothermia when I discovered there was no hot water left in the showers!

I was shaking like a dog that´s trying too hard to take a poo, and my friends grabbed as many blankets as possible to enshroud my little quivering corpse.....and after an hour of blanket coverage, socks, mittens, and scalding-hot beverages, I thawed out like frostbitten steak in the freezer. Ohhhhh, and after that, I got a cold. Just a litle one, but enough to make me stay another day at the Auberge, which we now call "Hospital", because everyone here seems to have tendonitis, blisters, sore muscles, broken down feet, fatigue, shall I go on!??? We´re all in the same sicko boat, so we´re all enjoying each others´tranquil company, sharing stories, sharing medications, and learning each others´ languages.

I am eating everything in sight. I guess they say, Feed a Cold? or Starve a Cold? I can´t remember, but I´m taking the first one!!! And, I´m rediscovering my creative side----you can color, draw, and write poetry on the walls here at this Auberge! I´m like a kid in a toystore here, drawing everything and anything, and writing bad poetry in 3 languages and enjoying the warm breeze that flows through the open-courtyard Auberge.

Coffee and Principe "galletas de chocolate", anyone? Panacea.

I´m trying! Buen Camino:)

El Camino

HOT, HOT, HOT!

It´s HOT now, after Burgos. Beautiful and hot. Must stay wet. Must drink loads of water. Must wet hair!

Near Granon and Villafranca

Grapes, wine, grapes and wine, and new friends

As pilgrims, you´re always hungry or tired, or both. We´ve found a solution-----eat the grapes! The vinyards don´t want to hear this, but to survive, with light backpack, eat the copious grapes that Northern Spain has to offer.

Other photos: new French friends, Michael and Pascale, the 3 Musketeers. We wound up at an Auberge at Torres del Rio very late, 6pm, full of people, 7 people in the kitchen sleeping around the table, on the table and under the table-----so we decided to sleep outside on the terrace under the stars. It was really a good nights´sleep. Try that if you can....

Normal Pilgrim meal

I´m not kidding when I say that this is the normal "Menu Perregrino" Get accustomed to this, as you´ll find these lovely things in any local tienda. You will find all the vitamins and minerals you need to walk for 5 hours a day!!! Just a few Euros.

LOL, the regular menu perregrino is about 10 or 11 Euros, about 15 American dollars...and not much better.

Enter Zubiri

Beautiful surroundings, legs keeping up with my body, all intact, no blisters. I´ve been adding Bodyglide (or Vasoline) to my little manacing toe and wrapping it with a small piece of plastic bag. That´s the trick!!! NO blisters with creme and plastic bag parts. It seems too simple, but it works!

Now, in Zubiri, got there late with Australian friends and voila, I have to sleep on the floor of a high school gym. Nothing but the best!!! Frankly, it was the best sleep ever, as there were NO snorers. If you get to your Auberge late, usually, you get an "interesting" spot, but you sleep well. So ignore those that try to beat the pack by getting there early, because most times, it´s best to get there late (if travelling in the cooler Autumn).

Photos, Photos

I have no time to write whatsoever, but I´ve finally found a computer half-way through the Camino that accepts USB and allows me more than 15 minutes at a time!!! Voila! Here are photos of the beginning of the Camino, half-way up the gargantuan climb up the French side of the Pyrennes. The following photo is of the monastary at Roncevalles where the Perregrinos stayed after an arduous day, yes 8 hours!, of climbing and descent into Spain. 120 beds and about 25 snorers. Bring your WAX earplugs guys! And, get used to seeing loads of butts. No shame. But that´s the fun!

Everything is said was WRONG, sort of...

It´s been over a week since my last post which was exceptionally subpar and exceptionally whiney (is that a word). All has changed, as to be expected on the Camino. Four days with Thierry and his Tee-pee, friends from Basque Country, and loads of fresh food from the market, garden and trees. This is the life, of time that sips by, little by little, and the shepherd with his sheep block our little car. Sheep crossing. Wild horses at night. Watch your step, it could be hot, steamy, and deep!

Caroline, the angel of the Camino, or Chemin de St. Jaques en France, has given me so much good advice and like the angel she is, drove me to the first point in France where the perregrinos take off, and that I did. Full of pain-au-chocolat and cafe (3x), I walked, I walked, and I walked. Mountains. Huge, bald, sheep, horses, some trees, road, some pilgrims/perregrinos in front of me, so I´m on the right path. Up, up, ascend, up, I´m fine, no problems, up, 3 hours, still walking, using my walking poles for the first time. GOD, I didn´t know how much I NEED these walking poles. I am a quadra-ped, I know what it feels like to be a horse! It´s hot now because the sun is out, so I unzip my pants to make shorts. Nice! Four hours, forest, yellow arrows, Camino sign, a Conch, a bit of toilet paper by a large tree that marks the perregino toilet-spot of choice. A fountain to fill my water. I´ve said nothing for half the day to anyone but myself. Some paths I am alone for long stretches, talking to myself in French, then repremanding myself, "Practice your damn Spanish, you´ll be in Spain in an hour or so....!"

Stupida! Stupida! ¿Tu m´entiendas, tu? Practica el espanol, porque estara en Espagna en algunas horas, espero que s¡!

Cloud cover and fog manifest and I put my pant-legs back on and a shell. Hat, gloves, it´s DAMN cold. Walking, fast to make warmth, up and over, little hills, big hills, there´s ALWAYS a hill around the bend. A Spanish guy on a mountain bike passes me as slow as molassas, trying not to lose ground. He walks with the bike often, which wickedly makes me feel better that I pass him walking. Tall Japanese man will poles-too-long, descending backwards to save his knees. At this descent, we´re all taking miniscule steps to not tumble down to Roncevalles!

There are no bathrooms on the Camino. That´s all I have to say. You must have toilet paper, a tissue, or a nice big leaf at all times. A small river will do.

Finally, my first night in Spain in a Monestary with 120 beds, bunk-beds. Need I say more? Our saving grace is the multilingual maternal greeter who gave us the rules, lights out at 10, etc, etc. with a sweet smile. That sweet smile will carry me the next day.

I´ve made friends already. Two Ausies and an American who´s not quite American (speaks Spanish, has done the Camino 5 times), and I help the two Aussies get rid of nearly half their pack. SEE----Aussies and Americans bring too much, myself included. 15 pounds women! 20 pounds men! 2 of everything and don´t carry rocks from the Camino-----you know who you are!

Learned so far:
*You will NOT wash your hair every day
*You will wear the same clothes until they smell
*You won´t care where you sleep, as long as the person next to you doesn´t snore
*Wax earplugs, not foam
*BUY WALKING POLES
*You must bring a sleeping bag in the Fall or Liner in the summer
*Hiking shoes, not boots----less pain, more flexible
*You can send things in your pack to a post office in a future town, they will hold it for 15 days
*Bring a reusable plastic spork----this will be your best friend
*Remember that everything closes between 2 and 4pm
*Buy a poncho that covers your pack---you can buy it here in Spain, 25 Euros
*Your feet can stay dry if you put plastic bags over your socks
*A swimcap keeps your hair dry in the rain
*Buy bread (pan), cheese, and pate (spreadable meat) because it´s cheap!!!!
*The "perregrino meal" is not cheap, usually around 10 Euros, or $15
*Share food, wine, and your thoughts
*Trust your fellow pilgrim, but be wary of the larger cities
*Pilgrims leave things in each occomodation, so you will have soap, pens, shirts, etc if you ask
*Follow the yellow arrows and you will never be lost
*Be kind to your fellow pilgrim, be quiet if you know someone is sleeping, or just be quiet anyway!
*Everyone knows the Camino and can kindly direct you where you need to be, go, etc
*You can buy a Spanish sim card for $20, Happy Movil, that costs 5 cents a minute to the U.S.

Finally----you will always meet friends, you will walk alone, with one, with two, and with new ones. Each day is new and each day you have no idea what the weather or what the Earth will bring. Do purchase the Pilgrim´s Guide to The Camino de Santiago, John Brierley-----it´s GREAT! A land, historic, and spiritual guide.

This time I mean finally, you WILL be sore. You´r ass will hurt. Your calves will throb. Stretch often.

Use Caroline´s wonderful backpack delivery service when and if pieces of your body start to fall apart and you want to continue on.... http://www.expressbourricot.com/, 7 Euros a day.

Bye for now. I´m on day 5 and feet are fine, knee is questionable. Pray for my knee. I went to Mass twice. I hope my knee repairs. It was hurt before I left, but massive, gravel-laden descents are rough whence trying to heal.

Travelling to Spain, blisters already? Pack falling apart?

Yes, yes, and yes, I've been travelling for about 48 hours, explanation, a long one involving a day-long layover in Brussels, a bad prix-fixe meal with gasoline flavored wine, and Mr. Fatty Bum sitting next to me (see next paragraph) on one leg of my myriad of flights to Bilbao, Spain, where I've a friend to pick me up and sweep me away for a few days deep into the Pyrennes near St. Jean-pied-de-Port to sleep-up, help jet-lag, bag-feed me, and send me off. And, yes, he's a doctor! Any problems I've got now, deal with it quickly. He also has a friend, Caroline, who knows loads about the Camino, given she´s started a company years ago, Burricot Express, that delivers backpacks from point to point, over the Pyrennes and until Lograno. I´ll definitely pick her Basque brain!



So far, 1. blister, already broken, healing, with medical tape----no pain and walked all day in Brussels. 2. brand-new Gregory backpack's aluminum structure support is poking out on top, causing my pack to lean to the left. One day, and my pack is disintigrating. 3. Lost loads of sleep and sanity, as, please don't judge me those overweight folks, as I was Fatty Bum for 1/3 of my life and I KNOW what it's like, however this 300+ pound man veritably utilized 50% of my leg, arm, and chest space during an entire flight, during which, he editing spread-sheets with his behemoth laptop on his robust belly, while his elbows jetted out, rose and fell, near my nose and mouth. However, since I was reading my trusty Camino Bible, "A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago", by John Brierly-------he emphatically states, "Respect your fellow pilgrim", so with this said, I was kind, said nothing (unusual for me), and stuck close to the window upon which I was cramped like wienies in a can for hours.



Still awaiting flight to Bilbao in Brussels. No shower in 2 days, perfect prep. for the Camino!!!! I smell great! As you can see by this post, I´m crabby and tired and this is the way I am when crabby and tired. A bitch! A controlled bitch....Which will calm down when I find the way again. "Il fait etre zen et detendu, oui?"

Walking poles, how to get past Airport Security in the US

The day before I leave: I have my final contemplation whacking me in the head like a metal pole, a trekking pole to be exact!

How do I get these lethal weapons onto the secure and hermetically sealed plane? I know that security is stringent, as they took my nail clippers last time and a collapsable pool-stick another time, which was never to be found again. 

So, I called American Airlines to find out what to do with the walking poles. As said by helpdesk woman on the 1-800 number I called, "canes are allowed on the plane". I tried to explain to her nicely that I have not one cane, but two, and they're walking poles, not canes. She insisted that the poles qualified as canes for walking assistance. Hmmmm. I smell uncertainty frying in this pan!

I kindly explained again that my walking poles are for trekking, are made of aluminum, and bear little jagged metal bits on the bottom, with which to grab the earth so that I don't go tumbling down---operative words for the airline safety situation "jagged metal bits". She insisted that if I simply go through security and get checked, my friendly walking aids would be permitted. I've heard this one before! I do know, from extensive travel acumen, that the airline and airline security check-point have NOTHING to do with each other. One's the docile cat and one's the dog next store!

She prompted me to go to http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/index.shtm

I've finally deduced that my poles are still lethal weapons, which can be checked in for free (on international flights) as non-carry on luggage, or you can collapse them and put them in a small box and make sure to use clear packing tape and airport Saran Wrap to seal the box shut. Also include your name, contact details, flight number(s) and destination just in case. And don't forget to throw in your Swiss Army knife, your plastic spork (another lethal weapon), nail clippers, or anything heavy that is not "essential", to lighten your load during your travel to Spain.

Prayer to Self: May all of my bags and myself, arrive intact and with sufficient sleep! No cranky-pants upon arrival!

What does one do the day prior to leaving for the Camino?

Yes, I have the pre-Camino jitters. Have I got EVERYTHING, can I take just one more thing out of my pack to make it lighter. Should I send a box to Santiago to have a few things after the trip, luxuries such as sneakers, jeans, maybe a smattering of make-up, or loads of extra underwear and clothing that smells like clean laundry. 

No, no and no. Not really necessary. 

* Travel insurance? check (www.worldnomads.com)

* Paid all of my bills and have all online bill-paying info? check

* Skype contacts updated? check

* Passport, duh? check, photocopy of Passport, check

* Laminated contact info? check

* Final email to the boss-man? check

* Print-out of flight details? check

* Super-light digital voice-recorder? check

* Pace my pad until I have an epiphany? not-checked

I can't stop thinking about what I may have missed. But, this is the obligatory leaving-the-country-for-a-long-time song and dance of jittery mind and stomach. May it be at peace soon:)

Some interesting Camino de Santiago statistics!

January 1 to June 30 of this year:

Total compostela recipients : 48,970 (43,803 for the same period in 2008)

Men 19,345; Women 29,625

Walked: 40,418; Bicycle: 8,368; Horseback: 181; Wheelchair: 3

Under 15 years of age: 1,146 
between 15 and 35: 15,555 
36 to 65: 28,220 
over 65: 4,049

Pilgrims with exclusively religious motives: 20,065 
Religious/cultural: 24,727 
Cultural only: 4,178

21,713 pilgrims hailed from Spain itself, less than 50%!
7,309 came from Germany; 
3,213 came from France; 
3,121 from Italy; 
2,578 from Portugal; 
1,278 from Austria; 
1,121 from the United States; 
1,112 from Holland; 
1,084 from Brazil; 
964 from Ireland; 
835 from Canada; 
656 from Belgium; 
579 from Finland; 
494 from Mexico; 
The rest, in decreasing numbers, from another twenty or so countries.

37,939 of the pilgrims followed the French Camino 
4,539 the Portuguese 
2,669 the Via de la Plata 
2,341 the Northern Way 
856 the Primitive Way 
and 499 the English. 
The rest followed several other routes.

11,508 of the pilgrims started out in Sarria;

6,220 in Saint Jean Pied de Port;

4,279 in Ponferrada ;

3,427 in Roncesvalles;

3,182 in Leon;

2,836 in O Cebreiro;

1,892 in Sevilla;

1,721 in Pamplona;

1,583 in Astprga;

1,128 in Le Puy;

1,042 in Tui

The rest commenced their pilgrimage at different points distanced from Santiago sufficiently to qualify the pilgrim for receipt of the Compostela. 

It's estimated that the total number of pilgrims in the various Caminos at any one time is about five times the number of those who do receive the Compostela. (So 5 out of 6 pilgrims do not get a compostela either from dropping out or continuing their camino at a later date!!!!!)

An “Anthropological Profile” of the 2008 Compostela recipients was made. These are some of the findings: 

Over 50% of the pilgrims were between 36 and 65 years of age; the percentage of pilgrims between 16 and 35 years of age has increased to 40%. (getting a younger crowd????) 

56% of the pilgrims are male. 
81% of the pilgrims are single 
56% of the pilgrims possess a college education. 
95% of the pilgrims declare either an exclusively religious reason, or a religious/cultural reason for the pilgrimage. 
87% of the pilgrims declared themselves to be believers; of these, 96% were Catholic, 2% non-Catholic Christians and 2% belonged to other religions. 59% of the believers stated that they are regular church-goers.

66% of pilgrims, declared that they went to the Camino without prior preparation, physical or otherwise. Of those who prepared themselves beforehand, 81% undertook physical training. (Ah-hem, me..) 

87% of the pilgrims went to the Camino in the company of someone else. 
13% went alone (mostly by choice...ah-hem, me!)

5% of the pilgrims declared that the most negative aspect of their experience was the difficulty of the Camino (tiredness, aches, blisters, etc). The climate bothered 46% of the pilgrims, and 31% complained about the albergues (no hot water and unfriendly hospitaleros).65% of the pilgrims were satisfied with the albergues (indeed, 18% were extremely satisfied), while 14% found the albergues deficient and 3% found them “very bad”.

On the positive side, 90% of the pilgrims pointed out the camaraderie, the friendship and the brotherly communication among the pilgrims. 41% found the spiritual and religious experience very meaningful and 21% were quite happily impressed by the contact with nature, the cultural aspects of the Camino and the opportunity to expand their physical and spiritual capabilities.

Monthly figures up to June can be viewed at http://www.archicompostela.org. Click on the colourful shell. Then click on the Spanish flag and then on Estadísticos .

Silly girl, you're already injured!

Stupid, stupid, stupid.....didn't the lifeguard say, "Don't run, walk!" whenever en route by the pool!?

I was a lifeguard in college. I yelled those same words to all of the flippant children running around the pool and what did I do this weekend....? 

While in the North Carolina mountains last weekend with Michael, we decided to take a pre-night-night dip in the swimming pool, while it was slightly drizzling outside, warm little droplets. I'm bikini-clad and barefoot, running from the car with my swim-goggles in one hand and cap in the other. "I'm coming!" I yelled, running on tender tip-toes when KABLAMBOOM, the earth slipped away and I fell into the puddle of water on cement that attacked my knee, elbow, palm, and ankle. How dare the pavement do that to me!!! I shriek like a cat paw-stomp. Blood combining with the dirty water in the puddle. AND I HAVEN'T EVEN STARTED ON THE CAMINO....

Michael chivalricly ran to my rescue, with no regard to the evil pavement, and swooped down to pick me up and he tried, he tried, and he tried again, laughing, while I wimpered, butt on the ground, body in his arms. I wasn't going anywhere. My little ass was too much to haul, so I uncrumpled myself and scoured my body for the damage. My knee. A big white, slick patch where skin used to be! Bruised. Aching. Elbow too. We wobbled back to the room and I crashed onto the bed, thinking: My Camino first aid kit is at home.

Solution: Breathe, relax, washed offending army of bacteria and pavement pieces off my knee with hotel soap, took a swig of wine for pain, and went to bed. I'm such a surgeon. Pre-WWI, lol.

Next day: Fine. Sore. Healing. Scab on it's way.

Today: I've run 8 miles on it since, and now perpetual "sleepy leg" ache and a little strain on the knee. Shit. Not good for the Camino, but let's talk about this weekend----the 1/2 Marathon that Michael and are doing. I've got 3 more days and counting to shape up and heal. Come on, knee, you can do it. I was limping a bit today. I stood in line for too long at Walmart and had to sit on the floor because my knee and upper leg was aching. Active visualization techniques: knee will be better by the race on Sunday. If not??? Should I do it anyway and jeopardize my knee-health for the Camino?

Suggestions anyone? I know what the answer is going to be, so maybe this is a rhetorical question. Rrrrrrrr.

Plumping up for the Camino

I got my body fat tested today----it was just $2 at the gym and I figured, “I spend more money on breathing than that”, so what the hell!? I need some good fat for the Camino, as pilgrims lose weight from the hyper-surplus of daily energy expended walking and hiking along the route. 

Don’t lynch me girls, but I’m trying to GAIN weight for this massive endeavor on which about I’m about to embark. Lord, give me more body fat. Give me mass, and bulk, and something to hold my backpack up----some junk in the trunk, as my trunk is a bit empty right now! Fill it up!

Scott, athletic center dude, asked me my weight (which I didn’t know---sorry Scott, not all girls have scales), height, and age and I had to stand like Shera the Universe Warrior, arms outstretched, gripping a small plastic and metal machine into the sky, while standing like cement, tense, still, solid and hold, keep holding.....(interject crickets chirping for 30 seconds) and the prognosis is: 15%!

15% body fat.. That’s loads, right? Or too little? I have no clue what normal, loads, or a paucity of body fat is. Deer in the headlights. I look at Scott and he has no clue either. The blind leading the blind. I turn to leave the fat-detection area and mumble, “Okay, I’m going swimming now”, as Scott chimes with a whirl and pearly whites as if to make up for his lack of pertinent information, “....you look good though!”

I didn’t know what I was looking for, but I remember that in high school we were pinched and prodded in Health or Gym Class, as our body fat was calculated by pliers and an abacus. What was my body fat percentage then? Damn, I can’t remember! What’s the point? I have absolutely nothing to compare myself to! 

Finally, I did what any uber-curious, weight-wondering, oblivious gal would do---Google my 15% body fat percentage. Jesus! Excuse my name-in-vain-usage, Christ! Normal is 21-25%, so already I’m ABNORMAL. Physically fit is 17-21%. I’m not fit enough!? And, lastly, athletic is 14-17%. Anything below that range is simply essential fat to sustain life....I’m borderline skinny she-male here and aspiring to sustain my own life during the Camino. Need more fat!

Damn! I swear I’ve been eating organic power bars, Mexican food, and Klondike bars for the past month. I’ve really been shoveling it in. I thought that I’d have packed on a little more poundage, but my efforts must have been thwarted by my triathlon training. It burns away everything I’ve worked so hard on. I know what you’re thinking. Poor you, you skinny #*&^! Yes, poor me! 

NEED FAT! 

If you would like to donate to the “donate fat to Me” charity, please do so. I will assemble an aspiration tube from any part of your body to my empty trunk and we’ll take it from there. Please. At least donate a Twinkie----just kidding, I’m healthier than that----I mean a funnel cake or two, with a side of Twix and Butterfinger.

Pre-camino Brain Cramps and Glowing Light

I went to court today to accompany a famly friend who couldn't defend herself against an aggrevated elder family member who is greedy, selfish, and to my accounts, a heartless sociopath who'd rather squeeze blood out of a rock than speak with kind words and love to those who ache to be cared about by him.

You know who you are, Cowardly Lion!

I returned home to contemplate the pervasivenss of Greed in this world--anonimity--pain--anger--loneliness--motives--or lack of motivation. I have a heavy, granite boulder weighing my already heavy noggin down to the ground. But, I can't look down.....I must look up.

I should value what I do have. Family, friends, safety, nature, full-mobility of body and limbs, chocolate, and a peering light, a freckle of light squeezing itself out at me from the End of the Camino. 

I hope to find balance in all respects. And balance so I don't fall flat on my butt. I hope to sense a cool, comfortable wave of easing into Peace and Understanding something, more than myself---of which, I'm not quite there either!

Wait and see. Looking forward and up!

Note to self: Watch out for the birds relieving themselves above :)

The Dreadful Packing List, made easier

First rule of thumb:

Don’t carry anything you can’t part with. Secondly, especially for women, don’t pack more than 10% of your body weight. Our natural tendency as pack-rat humans is to pack anything and everything that we may or may not need, but this time, you’re carrying all of that crap on your back!!! So less is more. Finally: No cotton. It’s heavy when wet, chafes your skin, and takes forever to dry! Also, try Walmart and TJ Maxx before sports and outdoors stores, as you’ll find yourself saving a ton of money. Make sure you try it in the store before ordering anything online, unless it’s REI---to be explained later.

Note: My list is slightly more helpful to Americans, as we have to prepare prior to arriving in Europe----and we, in many cases, have to purchase brands available to us, and I can also provide some key chain stores to access. I’ve also provided a little extra packing advice for women.

The Top 3 Big Guys-----Backpack, Sleeping Bag, and Footwear

Backpack: Try to buy an ultra-light weight with a suspended mesh back that has a sprung steel frame to keep the pack off your back---this allows your back to breathe so you don’t overheat and sweat your brains out. 

Women: I suggest a Gregory Jade 35 (35L) pack (about 1.8 lbs) made especially for women. This may not seem important, but we have boobs, an hour-glass figure, and a smaller neck----so I HIGHLY suggest asking your “educated” sports store attendant about Women’s packs with a proper fitting---and don’t buy anything off of the internet before trying it on, weighted, in the store first. 

Men: Any similar pack 40-50L, depending on your size and weight.

Sleeping Bag: Some prefer to just pack a sleeping bag liner, though I’m walking in the Fall / Autumn and need a bit more warmth, without the weight. One word: LAFUMA. http://www.lafumagear.com/

Never heard of this brand? Neither did ..until I did extensive research on comfort, weight, and function. I suggest the Warm N’ Light 600g Down 40 degree mummy bag. It literally rolls up into a small cyclindrical ball about 8” long and 5” wide. Perfect!!! You don’t really need to try it out in a store, but since I was there, the sales clerk let me unroll it on the floor and roll around inside it with my shoes off like a disoriented caterpillar in front of wryly giddy fellow New Yorkers at (thank you) Paragon Sports (http://www.paragonsports.com/).

Hiking Boots/ Shoes: Some prefer boots, for more ankle protection and some prefer hiking shoes for less weight and fewer blisters (less surface area to create blisters on your bending ankle area). I chose Columbia hiking shoes, about the same weight as heavier running shoes. As a woman, boots can get heavy! But, it’s your choice—you’re going to be living in them for a month, rain or shine. Gortex is nice and waterproofing is key.

The Rest of the Essentials, nothing more

* Wax Earplugs: needed for the snorers in the refugios. You need sleep to walk!

* Ziplock bags and a trash bag to protect your things from rain or spillage 

* Swiss Army Knife: Victorinox is quality and cheap, credit card style is lightest---w/ scissors, knife, tweezers, tooth pick, red LED light, ocular, and ruler---at Target

* 2 pairs of underwear: anything around 90% nylon and 10% lycra, as is comfy and dries in about an hour (TJ Maxx or sports store)

* 2 pairs of socks: your choice, try light-weight wicking plus extra liners by Wigwam or Under Armour brand (at Sports Authority or Dick’s Sporting Goods)

* 1 pair of convertible hiking pants: nylon, usually North Face, REI, or Columbia—in my preferential order of fit and function.

* 1 sleeveless nylon wicking t-shirt

* 1 hiking shirt: breathable and nylon 

* Walking poles: can be bought at Walmart, but lighter ones are in specialty outdoors shops

* Hat: must have, wide-brimmed, ventilated, Nylon suggested as waterproof, and with drawstrings to cinch to your head, in case of wind

* Sunglasses and silky carrying bag (protecting your protection!)

* Bandana: can be used for many things, and now they sell a soft, UV protection breathable headwear that can be used as a scarf, headband, ponytail holder, skull-cap, etc. Wicking, as well. Try Buff brand, www.buff.eu , sold at American specialty sports stores.

* 2 Water bottles: Platypus water-bags, weighs nothing (http://www.sunnysports.com/prod/PPSR.html?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=PPSR1)

* Camelback hydration system for your backpack (Walmart or sports store)

* (2) SPF 15 lip balm

* Sunscreen

* Plastic spork (Walmart)

* Collapsable drinking cup (Target)

* Travel tooth brush, travel tooth paste, dental floss---you can buy more on the Camino

* Camping soap, detergent, and shampoo petals (camping store)

* Nylon cord: for wrapping, tying, or binding anything

* Safety pins: for pinning wet items on your backpack to dry

* Sports towel: quick-dry from outdoor store, Dick’s Sports, light-weight

* Small head-lamp and lighted keychain, light is your friend! (Walmart)

* Mini-Kleenex travel pack (any store)

* Needle and thread

* Nail clippers

First Aid: Moleskin, waterproof blister bandaids, medical tape, tums, Imodium pill, aspirin, encapsulated electrolytes (Hammer brand), antiseptic wipes, and worse comes to worst----PM Tylenol, to knock you out and guarantee a good night’s sleep.

Extras that Help Loads

* Rain poncho, and it will rain

* Wind-proof, waterproof, breathable jacket/ shell

* (Optional) Waterproof thin pants

* (1) Tight, nylon, wicking long-sleeved shirt for those cold moments that you’d rather be in a coma than shivering, rigid, and a popsicle (Under Armour at Sports Authority)

* (1) Pair of nylon running pants----tight to keep the warmth in, dries quickly and prevents chafing

* (1) Warm-weather light long-sleeve nylon shirt

* Hooded, thin, micro-fleece jacket (North Face does this best---Sports Authority)

* Compact digital camera that takes AA batteries, so no charger, but use LITHIUM batteries to increase battery life by 300% (suggestion: Canon A480, about $100)

* Cellphone----only if you REALLY need it, but if not, NOOO. Buy a calling card.

* Ipod----only for use during down time, nobody uses it while walking, as it takes away from the experience and isolates you from fellow travelers

* Light-weight power bars, or snack bars for quick breakfasts (suggestions: Wings of Nature trail bars, http://www.freshharvestproducts.com/products_snacks.htm) 

* PASSPORT

* Camino Guide Book

* Moneybelt---for exploring the city after dropping your pack at the refugio

* Camp Shoes: Light-weight and comfy, (Crocs or generic Crocs at Walmart)

* Journal: Small, withplastic spirals to decrease weight (Farm Fresh or any store)

* 2 small pens

For Women
* 1 pair of cotton undies to alternate----avoids moisture and yeast infections
* 1-2 antibiotic pills in case of the horrific Urinary Tract Infection
* Tampons without applicators, in a Ziploc bag
* A sports bra or two, nylon
* An ultra-thin “pashmina” for use when wearing a tank top or sports bra, to protect from chafing around the neck area from the backpack. Can be used in other creative capacities! (Walmart, TJ Maxx, Marshalls)

Special Thanks to www.rei.com, as they have such an extensive online range of Camino-friendly gear, helpful and knowledgeable customer service reps, and an unlimited, timeless return policy. They even pre-print a sticker with their return address on it for you to stick and mail. Just say YES to REI!!!!

Ode to Mom, the Reason I Walk

My parents always babbled-on about traveling through Europe after I finished college. It was my Mom's dream-de-lifetime! She envisioned seeing the grassy, verdant knolls of England, the castles of France, and the wineries of Spain, etc, etc, like a fairytale to her. Bad cosmic timing: she was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis when I was in college and was home-ridden and passed away over the course of the following decade.

Mom was my best friend and practically siamese twin, a fellow silly-goose and bon-vivant, laughing at me and with me all of the time, my wackiest audience, comedic buddy, secret-keeper, personal driver from age 0-16, motivator, animator, creative muse and best of all, Dad calm-downer! She was the crazy-glue that held our family together, that jumped on me in my bed on early school mornings and tickled me until I bucked her off. She nagged me to death. And I deserved it. She wacked me once with a wooden spoon. And I deserved it! She loved everything about life and bliss beamed from her every pore. She was a beautiful angel from the inside to out. Mom, you're still my angel. I miss you.

I know you would walk this Camino with me.....and you will.

Mom, this walk's for you!

xoxo

History of El Camino de Santiago, or "Way of St. James"

Not many people know of, or the history of the Camino, so here's some bits for you to gobble up and chew on:

The Way of St James, or the Camino de Santiago, has existed for over a thousand years. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during medieval times and was considered one of three pilgrimages on which a plenary indulgence (absolution of sins) could be earned---the others are the Via Francigena to Rome and the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

Legend holds that St. James's (one of the 12 apostles of Jesus) remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain where he was buried on the site of what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela, Northeastern Spain. There are some, however, who claim that the bodily remains at Santiago belong to Priscillian, the fourth-century Galician leader of an ascetic Christian sect, Priscillianism, who was one of the first Christian heretics to be executed.

During the Camino, you can take one of many pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Traditionally, as with most pilgrimages, the Way of Saint James began at one's home and ended at the pilgrimage site. Nowadays, a few of the routes are considered main ones. During the Middle Ages, the route was highly traveled. However, the Black Plague, the Protestant Reformation and political unrest in 16th- century Europe resulted in its decline. By the 1980s, only a few pilgrims arrived in Santiago annually. Though today, thousands of modern-day pilgrims come from around the world. Most arrive from an origination city in Spain or France and travel by foot about 10-25 miles per day to Santiago, staying in "refugios" by night, and rising with the sun to walk again in the morning. Temperature varies from very hot, to cold and damp in the mountains.

What's up with the Scallop Shell everywhere along the Camino?

The Scallop Shell symbol (looks like Shell Gas!) is used to mark the Camino, on Camino information packs, and anything involving the Camino. Why this symbol?

The scallop shell acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell, which come together at a single point, represent the various routes pilgrims have traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela. The scallop shell is also a metaphor for the pilgrim. As the waves of the ocean wash scallop shells up on the shores of Galicia, God's hand also guided the pilgrims to Santiago.

The scallop shell also niftily served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The shell was just the right size for scooping water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl. Also, because the scallop shell is native to the shores of Galicia, the shell functioned as proof of completion. By having a scallop shell, a pilgrim could prove that he or she had finished the pilgrimage and had actually seen the "end of the world", which at that point in history was the Western coast of Spain.

To the end of the world, I go!!!

Racing to the start

Fact: I'm going to give up modern conveniences in return for hiking shoes, two changes of clothing, and cold out-door showers to wash myself briefly with micro-thin soap petals (google soap petals, if not sure what that is). No more Sealy posturepedic queen-sized fluffy bliss, hello miniscule cot with 20+ roommates and my ultra-light mummy sleeping bag! And to add to my pleasure, carrying everything I own for the pilgrimage on my back for 10-20+ miles per day, while hiking in the mountains and trails of Northern Spain, rain, storm, monsoon, or shine. The get-away of a lifetime!

It's a biting, exciting reality! I'm a triathlete and am hoping that this strength and endurance will help evade injuries, but we'll see.....(Ouch, I can already feel the blisters on my feet---just kidding, I'm a storm-trouper----at least this week, lol....)

The next question: "Do I want to televise this amazing spiritual, psychological, and physical journey for  perfect strangers and most dauntingly, friends and family to see!?" and "Do I want to be tapping on some keyboard constantly during the Camino at every Refugio (auberge, hostel) that I sleep in?" Ahhhh!

I've attempted that once before and I was THAT American---you know who I'm talking about----who missed out on so many tender morsels of experiences due to my eyes being glued to the mesmerizing portal screen into the cyberworld. Noooo, I don't want that to happen again.

I want to share information for fellow virgin Camino travellers, especially solo women travellers, but I actually need to "travel" and "experience", instead of ravenously typing at every crook in the winding, rocky road.

Answer:  I'll write as much as I can before I leave, and post the bulk of my material when I return and I have more time and reflection in my rear-view mirror.

Next comes the gastrointestinal distress of the few weeks prior to leaving, The History of The Camino de Santiago, planning, packing lists, Spiritual intent, the "why's" and the "how's" et. al.----not in that particular order.