Everything is said was WRONG, sort of...

It´s been over a week since my last post which was exceptionally subpar and exceptionally whiney (is that a word). All has changed, as to be expected on the Camino. Four days with Thierry and his Tee-pee, friends from Basque Country, and loads of fresh food from the market, garden and trees. This is the life, of time that sips by, little by little, and the shepherd with his sheep block our little car. Sheep crossing. Wild horses at night. Watch your step, it could be hot, steamy, and deep!

Caroline, the angel of the Camino, or Chemin de St. Jaques en France, has given me so much good advice and like the angel she is, drove me to the first point in France where the perregrinos take off, and that I did. Full of pain-au-chocolat and cafe (3x), I walked, I walked, and I walked. Mountains. Huge, bald, sheep, horses, some trees, road, some pilgrims/perregrinos in front of me, so I´m on the right path. Up, up, ascend, up, I´m fine, no problems, up, 3 hours, still walking, using my walking poles for the first time. GOD, I didn´t know how much I NEED these walking poles. I am a quadra-ped, I know what it feels like to be a horse! It´s hot now because the sun is out, so I unzip my pants to make shorts. Nice! Four hours, forest, yellow arrows, Camino sign, a Conch, a bit of toilet paper by a large tree that marks the perregino toilet-spot of choice. A fountain to fill my water. I´ve said nothing for half the day to anyone but myself. Some paths I am alone for long stretches, talking to myself in French, then repremanding myself, "Practice your damn Spanish, you´ll be in Spain in an hour or so....!"

Stupida! Stupida! ¿Tu m´entiendas, tu? Practica el espanol, porque estara en Espagna en algunas horas, espero que s¡!

Cloud cover and fog manifest and I put my pant-legs back on and a shell. Hat, gloves, it´s DAMN cold. Walking, fast to make warmth, up and over, little hills, big hills, there´s ALWAYS a hill around the bend. A Spanish guy on a mountain bike passes me as slow as molassas, trying not to lose ground. He walks with the bike often, which wickedly makes me feel better that I pass him walking. Tall Japanese man will poles-too-long, descending backwards to save his knees. At this descent, we´re all taking miniscule steps to not tumble down to Roncevalles!

There are no bathrooms on the Camino. That´s all I have to say. You must have toilet paper, a tissue, or a nice big leaf at all times. A small river will do.

Finally, my first night in Spain in a Monestary with 120 beds, bunk-beds. Need I say more? Our saving grace is the multilingual maternal greeter who gave us the rules, lights out at 10, etc, etc. with a sweet smile. That sweet smile will carry me the next day.

I´ve made friends already. Two Ausies and an American who´s not quite American (speaks Spanish, has done the Camino 5 times), and I help the two Aussies get rid of nearly half their pack. SEE----Aussies and Americans bring too much, myself included. 15 pounds women! 20 pounds men! 2 of everything and don´t carry rocks from the Camino-----you know who you are!

Learned so far:
*You will NOT wash your hair every day
*You will wear the same clothes until they smell
*You won´t care where you sleep, as long as the person next to you doesn´t snore
*Wax earplugs, not foam
*BUY WALKING POLES
*You must bring a sleeping bag in the Fall or Liner in the summer
*Hiking shoes, not boots----less pain, more flexible
*You can send things in your pack to a post office in a future town, they will hold it for 15 days
*Bring a reusable plastic spork----this will be your best friend
*Remember that everything closes between 2 and 4pm
*Buy a poncho that covers your pack---you can buy it here in Spain, 25 Euros
*Your feet can stay dry if you put plastic bags over your socks
*A swimcap keeps your hair dry in the rain
*Buy bread (pan), cheese, and pate (spreadable meat) because it´s cheap!!!!
*The "perregrino meal" is not cheap, usually around 10 Euros, or $15
*Share food, wine, and your thoughts
*Trust your fellow pilgrim, but be wary of the larger cities
*Pilgrims leave things in each occomodation, so you will have soap, pens, shirts, etc if you ask
*Follow the yellow arrows and you will never be lost
*Be kind to your fellow pilgrim, be quiet if you know someone is sleeping, or just be quiet anyway!
*Everyone knows the Camino and can kindly direct you where you need to be, go, etc
*You can buy a Spanish sim card for $20, Happy Movil, that costs 5 cents a minute to the U.S.

Finally----you will always meet friends, you will walk alone, with one, with two, and with new ones. Each day is new and each day you have no idea what the weather or what the Earth will bring. Do purchase the Pilgrim´s Guide to The Camino de Santiago, John Brierley-----it´s GREAT! A land, historic, and spiritual guide.

This time I mean finally, you WILL be sore. You´r ass will hurt. Your calves will throb. Stretch often.

Use Caroline´s wonderful backpack delivery service when and if pieces of your body start to fall apart and you want to continue on.... http://www.expressbourricot.com/, 7 Euros a day.

Bye for now. I´m on day 5 and feet are fine, knee is questionable. Pray for my knee. I went to Mass twice. I hope my knee repairs. It was hurt before I left, but massive, gravel-laden descents are rough whence trying to heal.